Sunday, October 11, 2009
Saturday, October 10, 2009
17th Sept. Ella
Nalin, the driver was waiting for us alongside the clapped out landrover at 5am yesterday morning. The Yala/Ruhuna National Park opened at 6am. As the early morning and late afternoon is the best times to see the wildlife we knew we would have to be at the gate right on opening. Nalin had asked us what we wanted to see in the park 'Leopard and sloth bear if at all possible' was our answer. 'I will go immediately to leopard rock' he said as the compulsory guide climbed in beside him. He drove fast. Herds of spotted deer leapt across the road in the early morning light, a jackal was briefly seen before heading into cover. At the rock just the one vehcle had stopped, binoculars protruding from the sides like snails eyes. The rocks were less than 40 metres from the road, atop the highest, in the early morning light, lay a magnificent male. I had always imagined leopards to be one of the smaller major cats but this bloke was big. The rising sun gave his coat a golden sheen. He lay there, head up, licking himself after feasting on the freshly killed samber deer that lay at the base of the rocks in the shade. We were entranced. Leopard was the only major cat we didn't see in Africa on our trip through, this made up for it. For twenty minutes we watched. Another 4wd pulled up but by then he had changed his posture and had lost his majestic stance. A short time later he moved out of site perhaps to have a sleep before feeding once again. The vehicles arriving waited in vain on his return.
Nalin carried on to some of the water holes in the park. Being the end of the dry season many were small with the animals and birds feeding there more concentrated. At one there woud have been 12-15 crocs who would have to travel to a larger watering place in the near future. It is a large park but the driver, although young, was very experienced in finding the animals. We saw wild boar, spotted and samber deer, crocs, water buffalo, mongoose, jackals, black faced monkeys and many types of birds inclding large storks and cranes. Part of a large water hole was covered in salvinia weed which the pigs found a very easy food source. But wariness was in order as beneath the weeds, crocs lurked, hard to see apart from a sudden flurry of weed and a snout poking through. There are only 12-14 sloth bears in the park, unfortunately we didn't see any.
The ocean forms one of the boundaries in the park. During the morning we stopped for a rest near the shore. At that point was the concrete floor of a amenities block. The rest of the building had been sheared off by the tsunami taking with it 14 Japanese and German tourists as well as their local guides and drivers. They just happened to stop for their break as the tsunami hit. There is a memorial to them at that site.
Nalin carried on to some of the water holes in the park. Being the end of the dry season many were small with the animals and birds feeding there more concentrated. At one there woud have been 12-15 crocs who would have to travel to a larger watering place in the near future. It is a large park but the driver, although young, was very experienced in finding the animals. We saw wild boar, spotted and samber deer, crocs, water buffalo, mongoose, jackals, black faced monkeys and many types of birds inclding large storks and cranes. Part of a large water hole was covered in salvinia weed which the pigs found a very easy food source. But wariness was in order as beneath the weeds, crocs lurked, hard to see apart from a sudden flurry of weed and a snout poking through. There are only 12-14 sloth bears in the park, unfortunately we didn't see any.
The ocean forms one of the boundaries in the park. During the morning we stopped for a rest near the shore. At that point was the concrete floor of a amenities block. The rest of the building had been sheared off by the tsunami taking with it 14 Japanese and German tourists as well as their local guides and drivers. They just happened to stop for their break as the tsunami hit. There is a memorial to them at that site.
18th Sept. Ella
Adam's Peak is famed for its religious significance. A place visited by many pilgrims who ascend the 5000 odd steps to the summit. Little Adam's Peak outside Ella would be a tenth the height, an easy walk with a few steps at the end then you are there with a magnificent view below you. We met up with a couple of friends we had talked to elsewhere while up there. The route to the top passes through ordered tea plantations with the sound of busy woodpeckers accompanying us as we walked.A beautiful orange/red bird, large. A lone Tamil was selling trinkets he had made from natural seeds along the way. We talked. He used to work in the nearby tea factory but a heart attack at 49 meant the heavy lifting had to stop. His wife was still a plucker but money was tight for putting their children through school. We believed him and bought a couple of things.
Strolling back we came upon 'The Little Folly', a small cafe advertising cake and fruit juice. The rain started giving us a chance to have a chat with the owner, Mr Gunasiri and enjoy the beautiful date cake.
Ella is a typical high country town. Popular with foreign tourists it has suffered with the down turn. The local shop and cafe owners appreciate any little you may spend with them. We met an Australian woman who had called Ella home and busy building a guest house. There are already many in the town, we hope it works out for her.
Strolling back we came upon 'The Little Folly', a small cafe advertising cake and fruit juice. The rain started giving us a chance to have a chat with the owner, Mr Gunasiri and enjoy the beautiful date cake.
Ella is a typical high country town. Popular with foreign tourists it has suffered with the down turn. The local shop and cafe owners appreciate any little you may spend with them. We met an Australian woman who had called Ella home and busy building a guest house. There are already many in the town, we hope it works out for her.
20th Sept. Nuwara Eliya
Not reading the map properly cost us quite a few kms on a rough road that we didn't have to travel on to get to Nuwara Eliya. NE is one of the highest towns on the island, 2000 metres above sea level. It rains a lot and can be quite cold. Every traveller we had met had become sick of the rain and mist that soaked their clothes and some had left earlier than planned. Things didn't auger well on arrival, it wasn't raining but was cold with mist hiding the highest peaks.
Nuwara Eliya useed to be the summer retreat for the colonials and still retains some of the trappings of an English village. The mddle of the town is a mass of concrete but on the surrounding hills there are some interesting older buildings. We lunched at a busy cafe near the bus stop. Bit of a novelty for the locals but under $2 for 4 tasty hot samosas and a couple of drinks it was good value.
The town is a good base to visit Horton Plains NP and World's End. The latter is in the national park and is a spectacular setting at the top of an 880 metre vertical drop to the forested land below. It's possible to see the southern most light house on a less hazy day. It's best to get to World's End before 10am as the mist usually swirls in by then and all you see is a wall of white.
We started early, 5.30am. I drove against the strong advice of the hotel staff but after a reconnoitre the day before and advice from a very helpful local we expected to have little trouble. 'Yes yes, the road continues in this manner' he said. 'There is no reason why you cannot drive all the way. But there is a better road and shorter.' He drew us a mud map then proceeded to lead us back to NE to show us the turn off. The road to the park was potholed but sealed with little traffic. We had to ask for directions a couple of times including once from an bemused buddhist monk waiting for the bus. It had rained during the night and the drive out there was through thick mist, the wipers working continuously. At the ticket office 5kms from the car park the mist and wind was atrocious soaking my clothes the short time I was outsde. At $50 to get in we had second thoughts, why pay all that money and not see anything? But the ranger assured it might be better at the cliff face.
At the car park the mist had lifted a little, we could see the undulating tussock country with the well marked paths crossing it. It was an easy 3km walk first to Little World's End then on to the real thing. It was an amazing view with the odd patch of mist adding interest. We had our play breakfast there before taking a longer route back by way of Bakers Falls. Tussocky highlands like we walked through has a silent aura about them similar to what we had experienced in the Abaderes in Kenya, Niyeka NP in Malawi as well as the Scottish highlands.A samber stag standing proud, antlers held high surprised us with his barking call. It was a memorable sight. The guide book said on weekends and public holidays the park gets crowded wth Sri Lankans. The last couple of kilometres before the car park we passed a continuous line of famlies heading to one of the many picnic spots. The car park was now chokker and a traffic jam at the ticket office made us thankful we we were there early.
Nuwara Eliya useed to be the summer retreat for the colonials and still retains some of the trappings of an English village. The mddle of the town is a mass of concrete but on the surrounding hills there are some interesting older buildings. We lunched at a busy cafe near the bus stop. Bit of a novelty for the locals but under $2 for 4 tasty hot samosas and a couple of drinks it was good value.
The town is a good base to visit Horton Plains NP and World's End. The latter is in the national park and is a spectacular setting at the top of an 880 metre vertical drop to the forested land below. It's possible to see the southern most light house on a less hazy day. It's best to get to World's End before 10am as the mist usually swirls in by then and all you see is a wall of white.
We started early, 5.30am. I drove against the strong advice of the hotel staff but after a reconnoitre the day before and advice from a very helpful local we expected to have little trouble. 'Yes yes, the road continues in this manner' he said. 'There is no reason why you cannot drive all the way. But there is a better road and shorter.' He drew us a mud map then proceeded to lead us back to NE to show us the turn off. The road to the park was potholed but sealed with little traffic. We had to ask for directions a couple of times including once from an bemused buddhist monk waiting for the bus. It had rained during the night and the drive out there was through thick mist, the wipers working continuously. At the ticket office 5kms from the car park the mist and wind was atrocious soaking my clothes the short time I was outsde. At $50 to get in we had second thoughts, why pay all that money and not see anything? But the ranger assured it might be better at the cliff face.
At the car park the mist had lifted a little, we could see the undulating tussock country with the well marked paths crossing it. It was an easy 3km walk first to Little World's End then on to the real thing. It was an amazing view with the odd patch of mist adding interest. We had our play breakfast there before taking a longer route back by way of Bakers Falls. Tussocky highlands like we walked through has a silent aura about them similar to what we had experienced in the Abaderes in Kenya, Niyeka NP in Malawi as well as the Scottish highlands.A samber stag standing proud, antlers held high surprised us with his barking call. It was a memorable sight. The guide book said on weekends and public holidays the park gets crowded wth Sri Lankans. The last couple of kilometres before the car park we passed a continuous line of famlies heading to one of the many picnic spots. The car park was now chokker and a traffic jam at the ticket office made us thankful we we were there early.
21st Sept. Nuwara Eliya
The Hill Club is an institution. A throwback to the colonial days, the place where plantation owners would congregate. Women had to enter through a side door and weren't allowed to be seen in the public bars. It has only been in the last 20 years or so has a women's toilet has been added. No locals allowed in those days, now, looking at the presidents board 1976 was the first year a Ceylonese name comes up. A Colonel A.V. Ratwatte being the first native president.
A club where samber heads and rainbow trout adorn the walls, an elephant's foot umbrella stand stands by the entrance. Portraits of the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh circa 1953 hang each side of the fireplace and 'formal' is the appropriate dress for dinner. I had bought a tie knowing this but they do have a supply of ties and jackets in the men's dressing room for the plebs.
Non-staying dinner guests are given a temporary membership for the night and women are most welcome. An economic decision as the number of white plantation owners have dwindled.
Milton was a pillar of quiet efficency. Our head waiter, he had been at The Hill Club for 29 years and would have seen many changes. The servce was excellent, food delicious and the South African cab/sav a fitting accompiament. It was a 5 course meal, the second course, onion soup, was served from a silver soup trolley. Milton noticed Joan had been served a smaller amount than myself, a quiet word to his assistant server to check that that was what madam wanted. The last course, high country tea was taken in front of the roaring fire helped alng by the odd splash of diesel.
The botanical gardens south of the city attract man Sri Lankans on the weekend and even more so during our visit being the end of Ramadan, and a public holiday. Founded by the British in 1800 their legacy has been continued. There is a fine array of colour and form.
A club where samber heads and rainbow trout adorn the walls, an elephant's foot umbrella stand stands by the entrance. Portraits of the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh circa 1953 hang each side of the fireplace and 'formal' is the appropriate dress for dinner. I had bought a tie knowing this but they do have a supply of ties and jackets in the men's dressing room for the plebs.
Non-staying dinner guests are given a temporary membership for the night and women are most welcome. An economic decision as the number of white plantation owners have dwindled.
Milton was a pillar of quiet efficency. Our head waiter, he had been at The Hill Club for 29 years and would have seen many changes. The servce was excellent, food delicious and the South African cab/sav a fitting accompiament. It was a 5 course meal, the second course, onion soup, was served from a silver soup trolley. Milton noticed Joan had been served a smaller amount than myself, a quiet word to his assistant server to check that that was what madam wanted. The last course, high country tea was taken in front of the roaring fire helped alng by the odd splash of diesel.
The botanical gardens south of the city attract man Sri Lankans on the weekend and even more so during our visit being the end of Ramadan, and a public holiday. Founded by the British in 1800 their legacy has been continued. There is a fine array of colour and form.
21st Sept. Kandy
We dropped 1500 metres today on a good windy road. Tea plantations covered the steep mist shrouded slopes with early morning pluckers at work removing the tips of the plant that had grown overnight. Waterfalls were in abundance providing a free source of water for the enterprising car washers plying their trade on the side of the road.
It rained all the way, that fine drizzly rain that soaks and makes the road slippery. I was doubly carefull as a couple of the tyres on the hire car were low on tread. Coming around a sharp corner on a steep downhill section I was presented with a broken down bus stopped in the middle of our side of the road. Coming up the hill was another bus. I gently applied the brakes fearing we might slide then suddenly I heard this screeching of brakes behind us and a car skidding. An older car with two young blokes in it was sliding towards our rear. The driver had the foresight or luck to turn the steering wheel putting the car in a 180 degree spin and ending up facing the way he had come. He came to a halt less than 2 metres from our rear. In the meantime the bus coming towards us had stopped with the passengers having a great view of the drama. Luckily they didn't hit us, imagine trying to explain to the hire car bloke why the back of the car as well as the front was all pushed in as the car would have pushed us into the stationary bus.
It rained all the way, that fine drizzly rain that soaks and makes the road slippery. I was doubly carefull as a couple of the tyres on the hire car were low on tread. Coming around a sharp corner on a steep downhill section I was presented with a broken down bus stopped in the middle of our side of the road. Coming up the hill was another bus. I gently applied the brakes fearing we might slide then suddenly I heard this screeching of brakes behind us and a car skidding. An older car with two young blokes in it was sliding towards our rear. The driver had the foresight or luck to turn the steering wheel putting the car in a 180 degree spin and ending up facing the way he had come. He came to a halt less than 2 metres from our rear. In the meantime the bus coming towards us had stopped with the passengers having a great view of the drama. Luckily they didn't hit us, imagine trying to explain to the hire car bloke why the back of the car as well as the front was all pushed in as the car would have pushed us into the stationary bus.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
22nd Sept. Kandy
Highest View Guest House has an imposing view looking onto the Temple of the Tooth surrounded by bush clad hills with Kandy Lake in the foreground. The sound of young voices singing is heard from a nearby school even though it's 6.30 in the morning. All windows we can see from the guest house are covered in steel mesh. It's there to deter a tribe of monkeys that patrol the neighbourhood looking for an entry point to create their mischief.
We were awoken at dawn by a cacaphony of crows, fifty or so in number, discussing their plans for the day on the power lines below the guest house. Fortunately their voices are not the harsh voices we hear in AU. Two black striped squirrels run along the phone line onto a roof the male chasing his intended mate until with a gigantic leapshe escapes down a nearby shrub. It is a very relaxing place.
Last night we walked around the lake to visit the Temple of the Tooth. Some years ago the temple was attacked by Tamil Tigers, they didn't get inside but did considerable damage to the outside of the building. Security was very tight with two body and bag searches before entering. Police were stationed throughout the complex. It is the most sacred place on the island with many believers prostrating themselves in front of the ornate receptacle that houses the tooth.
We were awoken at dawn by a cacaphony of crows, fifty or so in number, discussing their plans for the day on the power lines below the guest house. Fortunately their voices are not the harsh voices we hear in AU. Two black striped squirrels run along the phone line onto a roof the male chasing his intended mate until with a gigantic leapshe escapes down a nearby shrub. It is a very relaxing place.
Last night we walked around the lake to visit the Temple of the Tooth. Some years ago the temple was attacked by Tamil Tigers, they didn't get inside but did considerable damage to the outside of the building. Security was very tight with two body and bag searches before entering. Police were stationed throughout the complex. It is the most sacred place on the island with many believers prostrating themselves in front of the ornate receptacle that houses the tooth.
22nd Sept Anaradhpura
Longest drive and most of it one one of the busiest roads on the island. Drizzled for a bit but no problems. We decided to make a detour and visit the elephant orphanage. Added a few kms on to the day's drive but we thought it would be worth it.It was there that I became aware of one of the few brickbats of the country. To get in and see the elephants being fed it was going to cost us$14 each and at the beginning of Oct it was going up to $22 per person. For something that would take little over an hour to see, their feeding then being walked down to the river for a bathe it was a bt of a rip off. The government is trying to milk the foreigner to the nth degree, the locals pay a 10th of what we pay. And it was the same everywhere we went. World's End worked out to be $50 for the 2 of us and if we needed a lift out there it would have been a further $35. Even the lesser temple sites you could be looking at $15 p/p. An elderly Malaysian said to me that if they want people to come and see their culture and historical sites they shold be going in the opposite direction. It's dissappointing and would put many people off.
24th Sept Anaruhadpura
The pleasure gardens were dry, empty ponds and a bit of rubbish around. Yet a pleasant place for a picnic lunch. The morning had been spent visiting some of the ancient sites. A rock temple, stupas and the most venerated bo tree on the sland. At least 2000 years old it is meant to be the oldest tree in the world. We were surprised how thin and spindly it looked with many branches held up by ornate poles.
Anarhadhpura s one of the three cties included in the trianglar pass. For US$50 you can use the pass also in Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa.Yet the sites are so spread out here many of them aren't included in the pass and are free or quite cheap. It was only at the last one, a seated stone buddha, were we asked to pay either $17 or the $50. The cheaper was for a pass for Anaruhadhpura only. We declined.
The meals at the Ashok Hotel where we are staying are very good but too big. We tried sharing just the one meal but it seemed to be as big as what we ordered for two apart from a little less rice. A clean hotel with excellent staff. Better than most we looked at on our arrival. It has a very progressive owner/manager. When the civil war saw the drying up of overseas tourists Mr N.B. Rathnayaka attracted local business men and families as his client base. Not so much income for him but the cash flow remained. We were the first tourists to have stayed for many months. But it was his staff training that appealed as soon as you entered the door; smiles all around, pleasant greetings and well trained on their job. Senaka, our waiter, came from a small village a good distance from the city. He was young and still learning the job, his English was patchy. Yet he was so attentive to our needs, I happened to put a couple of pieces of poppadoms down on the table cloth, next thing I know they've been whisked away despite my protestations only to have a full bowl of fresh ones placed near me. Joan had finished her meal but hadn't put her knives quite in the '6.30' position on her plate, more like '8.40'. Her plate remained while mine was taken away. It wasn't until I suggested that that was the reason why hers was still there, they thought she was still eating. As soon as they were placed correctly, whoosh! it was gone. Occassionally a longer serving waiter would talk quietly into his ear, giving him a few helpful hints
Anarhadhpura s one of the three cties included in the trianglar pass. For US$50 you can use the pass also in Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa.Yet the sites are so spread out here many of them aren't included in the pass and are free or quite cheap. It was only at the last one, a seated stone buddha, were we asked to pay either $17 or the $50. The cheaper was for a pass for Anaruhadhpura only. We declined.
The meals at the Ashok Hotel where we are staying are very good but too big. We tried sharing just the one meal but it seemed to be as big as what we ordered for two apart from a little less rice. A clean hotel with excellent staff. Better than most we looked at on our arrival. It has a very progressive owner/manager. When the civil war saw the drying up of overseas tourists Mr N.B. Rathnayaka attracted local business men and families as his client base. Not so much income for him but the cash flow remained. We were the first tourists to have stayed for many months. But it was his staff training that appealed as soon as you entered the door; smiles all around, pleasant greetings and well trained on their job. Senaka, our waiter, came from a small village a good distance from the city. He was young and still learning the job, his English was patchy. Yet he was so attentive to our needs, I happened to put a couple of pieces of poppadoms down on the table cloth, next thing I know they've been whisked away despite my protestations only to have a full bowl of fresh ones placed near me. Joan had finished her meal but hadn't put her knives quite in the '6.30' position on her plate, more like '8.40'. Her plate remained while mine was taken away. It wasn't until I suggested that that was the reason why hers was still there, they thought she was still eating. As soon as they were placed correctly, whoosh! it was gone. Occassionally a longer serving waiter would talk quietly into his ear, giving him a few helpful hints
25th Sept. Negombo.
A long drive yesterday from Anaradpurah. Over 160 kms. A rough road for most of it until we reached Puttalum on the coast. Then a better road but more traffic. Negombo is often the first or the last port of call for visitors. Much closer to the airport than Colombo, the beaches aren't as good as those further south but it has many hotels and guesthoses to chose from, most overlooking the water and some very average restaurants. In fact the Lonely Planet says it is one of the few places on the island where the food is not the best. But for Joan the piece de resistance is a new boutque that has opened along from our guesthouse. The prices are consderably less than the well patronised Barefoot in Colombo where we spent a bit of money on our arival. The owner spent 6 years in Italy where he learnt design.
We fly out tomrrow, a nght in KL then home. It's been a good break, one of the reasons for the trip was to see how we went lving out of suitcases again and having to find accommodation every night. Having our car made it much easier but having our van is hard to beat.
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